It was in 2005 that I last travelled on Indian Railways. I
have been reading both good and bad about the railways. Laloo and Mamta both
had contributed for the state of affairs we are in today. It was the last day of
January 2013, I got on to Garib Rath with Joe, my American friend, who was keen
to travel by Indian Railways. Luckily the train for Jabalpur departed on time. Condition
of the coaches was good. What impressed me was electrical power point for
charging mobiles and laptops in every cabin. Good thought that dawned upon the bureaucrats.
Soon after Kalyan we found gang of unauthorized vendors
moving through the coaches selling anything from tea, coffee, bottled water, vada pav, bhel puri, Nasik grapes to
Chinese toys. Surprisingly the official vendors were conspicuously missing. In
between someone from railway’s catering services would move around to book
evening dinner and someone would supply bedrolls on payment for the night. Both
the dinner and bedrolls were far below the acceptable standards. I asked Joe if
he would like to taste Vada Pav. His
refusal was understandable, the nice smell of freshly fried Vada and the fried green chillies was
very tempting, but the unhygienic way it was served even made me shirk from the
idea of having one. Tea from unauthorized venders was good, but too expensive. Joe
made a quick calculation and commented that it’s more expensive than a bottle
of beer in Maharashtra. In Goa, he said, one may have two bottles beer at
lesser price than that of the tea. Hardly 50 ml of tea that was served at Rs.7/-. It
works out to nearly Rs.140/- per liter. I had no answer for his observational silent
question.
Chained tumbler in toilet |
Joe wanted to freshen
up and excused himself. The cleanliness in railway toilets, even other toilets
in India is far below the acceptable levels for Westerners. We as Indians may crib
and use it as we have no options. Very few individuals take any efforts to keep
the toilets clean, we just don’t care. Anyway I was not expecting any comments
to this regard from Joe, as he got used to such toilets while in India. Joe
returned and had a big question mark on his face. “Something wrong Joe”. I enquired? “Not really”,
he said, “I was sure not to find tissues in the toilet, but I was just
wondering why the tumbler over there is chained? Who the hell will take it
away?” I had no answer, but it did trigger my thought process. Why are we like
this?
We finished our dinner and decided to retire. As we were
preparing our beds, Joe saw our fellow passenger putting a chain and a lock to
his bag. Again there was a question from Joe, why is he securing the bag? May
be the poor chap was worried that his bag should not be stolen in the night. I
could understand this but could not explain to Joe. Thieves are everywhere in
the world but the numbers and what they steal is different. I have seen bags
being snatched at Hong Kong and Frankfurt airports. I have seen mugging in New
York and Moscow. But tying a chain to travel bag is unique to our country. I
was looking for a convincing answer to explain Indian psyche to Joe.
Chained garbage can |
By 9.00 pm the train
reached Bhusawal. Joe checked with me if it would ok for him to get out of the
coach and stroll over the platform for a while. The train usually halts for
fifteen minutes and I nodded my head in confirmation. Joe had a breath of fresh
air and returned to the coach once again with a question mark. Now I was wondering,
what is bothering Joe. He did not test my patience. He narrated that
he went to drop the gum wrapped in a piece of paper to the garbage can and he
was surprised to see the chain and lock on the garbage can. The dust been, what
the American call as garbage can, had a chain around it and that was locked to
grill of a window. Joe asked, “Does someone steal garbage cans in India?” I had
once again no answer but some pricking questions.
Chained sand and water buckets for fire fighting |
Train reached Itarasi
by 2.00 am. Joe gain got out of the coach. I was sure that Joe will have
another question when he returns. There was a change of locomotive from
electric to diesel. A loud different whistle vouched for this as the train
rolled out. I went till the passage to ensure that Joe is back in the coach. “Any
questions Joe?” I initiated this time. “Well, just want to know how often there
is a fire at the railway stations in India?” Joe asked. “Hardly any, I don’t
remember any incidence in the recent past”, I told Joe, “but what made you ask
this question Joe”, I asked. “Well on the track (American word for platform) I
saw buckets of water and sand neatly placed on a steel stand” Joe told, “but
question remains why these should be chained and locked? How can one use these
in case of emergency? One will have to look for the person who has the keys”.
Once again, I was foxed and had no answer.
Chained chairs in first class waiting room |
The train finally
reached Jabalpur. We waited at the platform for a while for our friend who was
to pick us up. He was delayed. I called him to check if he was around. He
informed that he might take some time to reach station and we should wait for
him in first class waiting room. We picked up our bags and proceeded towards
the waiting room. I stepped in and immediately turned back. Joe wanted to know
if anything is wrong. I said, “no, we will rather wait out and enjoy early
morning fresh air (along with typical early morning foul smell)”. It would have
been easy for me to explain Joe, genesis of foul smell, rather that answering
his certain question, “why the chairs in the waiting room are chained and
locked?”
Can someone tell me why do we need to lock everything,
private and public property? Are we really thieves? We see this every day but what
message it gives to the foreigners? THINK.......
Sir while putting out an answer, I might be leaning towards the chain culture. Here are few instances which I've seen while travelling. The taps(both of the wash basin and toilet), switch boards(mobile charging points) on Benaras- Agra train were missing from 4 consecutive coaches.. Now one might blame this one on the poor and close the issue.. now comes the other part of the spectrum(middle class).. the tradition of taking away(stealing) the thin white bed-sheet provided by railways for overnight journey in AC compartments, bringing home office stationary, faking bills, over-claiming expenses is widespread.. It is not stealing which is the core issue, it is just an offshoot.. If we think a bit more, at the core of it; is our attraction towards wrongdoing.. We seek thrill in being dishonest, in going against the rules.. when we go to temples.. getting prasad twice is a matter of pride, cutting the line and getting seat in the bus is smart.. 'aree ye aadmi KUCH BHI kar ke kaam nikaal lega, aap chinta mat karo..' is something we hear of many brokers in real estate.. Do we give a damn about what that 'KUCH BHI' is?? NO.. We as a society worship JUGAADus.. That is adventure for us.. A law abiding person is a lame one while a JUGAADu is super cool.. So making quick money runs in the society and selling scrap is one of the 'quick' way to do it and hence the stealing and hence the chain culture!!! Hope I've made a valid argument..
ReplyDeleteYes it is a reality, but what message it gives to foreigners. It surely projects bad image, poor governance and sense of insecurity for all. Sad.
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